Want to get into the adrenaline-pumping world of FPV drone racing? Building your own 5-inch FPV racing drone is not just rewarding—it’s the best way to learn about your gear, fine-tune performance, and fix issues in the field like a pro.
In this step-by-step tutorial, we’ll show you exactly how to build your own FPV racing drone using a DIY FPV racing drone kit. This guide is optimized for beginners and experienced pilots alike and includes expert insights on choosing FPV racing drone parts, assembly, and tuning. Whether you’re into DIY racing drone projects or want to compete on the race track, this is the guide for you.
Who Is This Guide For?
– Beginners wanting to build their first FPV racing drone
– DIY tinkerers looking for a satisfying personal project
– FPV racers who want a lightweight, high-speed drone optimized for racing
Why Build a FPV Racing Drone Instead of Buying One?
DIY FPV racing drone kits not only save money but help you truly understand your aircraft. You’ll know exactly how to troubleshoot, upgrade, or repair it. Most importantly, building a racing drone from scratch gives you a serious edge in performance tuning, weight reduction, and custom configuration.
This video tutorial covers the full build and tuning process of this 5 inch FPV racing drone.
FPV Racing Drone Parts List
| Part | Model | Why We Chose It |
| Frame | BCROW PRO-V4 | Lightweight, true-X design, thick carbon fiber arms—perfect for high-speed turns and crash resistance. Optimized for 5” racing builds. |
| Motors | MEPS SZ 2207 1950KV | Ideal stator size for racing. High KV = faster response. Ribbed 1.37mm design resists impact and vibration. Lightweight yet durable. |
| ESC | MEPS SZ 45A MINI ESC (32-bit) | Supports 6S and high amp draw. 32-bit processing ensures ultra-smooth throttle response and DShot compatibility. |
| Flight Controller | MEPS SZ F7 MINI (F722 chip) | High computing power, great for racing filtering (RPM + DShot600). Plenty of UARTs and blackbox storage. |
| Props | MEPS SZ5145 Propeller | Designed for racing—efficient thrust, durability, aggressive pitch for acceleration and top-end speed. |
| Camera | RunCam Racer Nano 4 | Low latency, wide dynamic range, perfect for high-speed visibility. Compact and crash-resistant. |
| VTX | T-Motor FT800 | 25mW–800mW power switch, race-legal with SmartAudio support. Clean signal with strong penetration. |
| Receiver | BETAFPV ELRS 2.4G Nano | Lightweight, long-range, and ultra-low latency. Fully compatible with ExpressLRS protocol radios. |
| Antenna | Foxeer Lollipop 4 | Compact, durable, with excellent 5.8GHz signal. 2.6dBi gain ideal for track performance. |
| Battery | 6S 1300mAh LiPo | Balanced weight and capacity—powerful punch, but keeps AUW within race-legal limits. |
This FPV racing drone parts list is optimized for 5-inch racing drones and represents one of the best combinations for both beginner FPV racing drone kits and advanced builds.
Essential Tools
You’ll need these to build:
| Tool | Purpose |
| 60W Adjustable Soldering Iron | For clean, reliable joints |
| Rosin-core Solder Wire | Better conductivity |
| Hex Driver Set (1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm) | For frame and motor screws |
| Wire Strippers & Tweezers | For prep work |
| Heat Shrink Tubes & Zip Ties | For insulation and cable management |
| Multimeter | To test continuity and avoid shorts |
| Thermal Paste | Optional, for ESC/VTX cooling |
Step-by-Step: How to Build a FPV Racing Drone
Step 1. Assemble the Frame
- Lay out the carbon fiber bottom plate, arms, and side plates.
- Assemble with M3 hardware—tighten gradually and evenly.
- Check flatness by placing the frame on a flat table. Uneven frames cause vibrations.
Pro Tip: Apply Loctite to screws for vibration resistance during crashes.
Step 2. ESC + XT60 + Capacitor Soldering
a. XT60 Power Lead
- Use 14AWG silicone wires. Red = + / Black = −.
- Solder to ESC battery pads. Use a high-temp (450°C) soldering iron tip.
b. Capacitor Installation
- Solder a 35V 1000μF low-ESR capacitor across the battery pads.
- Protect the capacitor with heat shrink tubing. Mount close to ESC input.
Why this matters: Capacitors suppress voltage spikes and protect your ESC & FC from brownouts or damage.
Step 3. Mounting ESC & FC
- Mount ESC on soft standoffs on the bottom deck. Align with motor pad layout.
- Mount FC directly above ESC with rubber grommets. Arrow on FC should point forward.
Reminder: Always double-check the pin mapping of your FC-ESC wiring harness. If rotated 180°, motor order must be corrected in Betaflight.
Step 4. Solder and Mount Motors
Motor Installation & Wiring
- Secure each motor with 4x M3 screws. Avoid overtightening.
- Confirm screws don’t touch stator windings (check inside bell).
- Route motor wires along arms and fix them with electrical tape or zip ties.
Motor Soldering
- Solder the three wires to ESC pads. Direction/order doesn’t matter yet.
- Use short wires for cleaner builds and less weight.
Step 5. Install Camera, VTX & Antenna
Camera:
Mount the RunCam Nano securely in the front TPU camera mount.
- Solder:
- Video → FC CAM pad
- 5V → FC 5V
- GND → GND
Tilt angle for racing: 30–45° (start lower if you’re new).
VTX (T-Motor FT800):
Mount above FC or on rear stack. Connect:
- VTX Video → FC VTX
- 10V or BAT → Power pad (check VTX rating)
- GND → GND
- DATA → FC TX UART (e.g., TX1)
Antenna:
Attach Foxeer Lollipop to a TPU rear antenna mount. Ensure no contact with carbon to avoid signal loss.
Step 6. Receiver (ELRS) Installation
Connect receiver to FC, the wiring diagram is blow: TBS and the ELRS are the same.
Solder wiring:
- G → Black → GND
- 5V → Red → 5V
- T5 → Yellow → RX
- R5 → White → TX
Mount away from ESC/power wiring for minimal noise. Secure with heat shrink.
Step 7. Install the Top Plate
Install the top plate.
Tip: Don’t install props during testing.
Step 8. Mounting Propellers & First Flight
· Mount props: Incorrect prop orientation will cause the drone to flip on takeoff.
- CW on motors spinning clockwise
- CCW on motors spinning counterclockwise
· Secure with M5 nylon lock nuts. Don’t overtighten.
· Power up with goggles and radio on. Verify video and control link.
· Do a hover test. Watch for oscillations, overheating, or signal dropouts.
Setting Up Betaflight (Tuning Your FPV Racing Drone)
Step 1. Firmware Flashing & Initial Config
- Connect FC via USB. Flash latest firmware in Betaflight Configurator.
- Set board orientation if needed (e.g., if ESC rotated).
Step 2. Flight Controller Setup
Calibrate the Accelerometer
Once the drone is fully assembled and connected to Betaflight Configurator:
- Go to the “Setup” tab.
- Click on “Calibrate Accelerometer” while your quad is placed flat on a level surface.
This ensures accurate horizon-level reference, critical for Angle mode stabilization.
Step 3. VTX and Receiver Configuration
Enable UART Ports
Depending on where you’ve soldered the VTX and receiver on your flight controller, enable the corresponding UARTs in Betaflight:
- In this build:
- The receiver is connected to UART5 (R5) → Enable Serial Rx on UART5.
- The VTX is connected to UART1 → Enable VTX (TBS SmartAudio or IRC Tramp) on UART1.
Navigate to the “Ports” tab in Betaflight and toggle the appropriate functions. Save and reboot the FC.
Step 4. PID Tuning
Default PID Settings
For a standard 5-inch racing drone, the default PID values in Betaflight are typically sufficient to get in the air with good stability.
You can keep them as-is initially, then fine-tune later based on flight test behavior (oscillations, bounce-back, prop wash).
Step 5. Receiver Binding and Channel Mapping
Bind Receiver to Radio Transmitter
- Set the receiver protocol to CRSF (Crossfire) in the “Configuration” tab if using TBS hardware or similar.
- Bind your transmitter to the receiver using the manufacturer’s method (usually by pressing the bind button while powering the RX).
- After binding, go to the “Receiver” tab in Betaflight.
If stick movements do not match the correct channel movements (e.g., throttle moving yaw), adjust the channel map (e.g., TAER1234 or AETR1234) until sticks correspond properly.
Step 6. Mode Configuration
Set Flight Modes
In the “Modes” tab, assign switches to activate:
- ARM – for the motor spinning
- ANGLE – for stabilized flight mode (optional for beginners or testing)
Drag and drop the range sliders for each mode based on your transmitter switch positions.
Step 7. ESC Protocol
Set ESC Protocol
In the “Configuration” tab:
- Under ESC/Motor Features, set the ESC protocol to DShot300. This ensures fast, digital communication with precise throttle control.
Step 8. Motor Setup and Direction Check
Check Motor Order
Go to the “Motors” tab in Betaflight and verify the motor numbering by enabling the motor test (ensure propellers are removed).
- Motor #1: Rear Right
- Motor #2: Front Right
- Motor #3: Rear Left
- Motor #4: Front Left
If the motor positions don’t match the diagram, use the “Reorder Motors” feature and follow the prompts to correct the motor layout. This may be necessary if the ESC was installed in a rotated orientation.
Step 9. Verify Motor Rotation Direction
Once the motor order is correct, ensure each motor spins in the correct direction:
- Motor #1 and #4: Clockwise (CW)
- Motor #2 and #3: Counterclockwise (CCW)
Use the “Motor Direction” wizard in Betaflight or BLHeli Configurator to reverse motor direction if needed.
Step 8. Final Safety Checks
Use a multimeter to check for shorts before first power-up.
Use a smoke stopper for your maiden power-up test.
Calibrate accelerometer (if needed), especially for ANGLE mode.
#Tip: Troubleshooting Motor Issues
- If no motors spin, ensure the battery is connected and ESCs are properly powered. You should hear ESC beeps on battery plug-in.
- If one motor doesn’t spin, swap it with a known working motor on the same quad to isolate whether the issue is with the ESC, motor, or signal wiring from the FC.
Step 9. OSD (On-Screen Display) Setup
Customize OSD Layout
In the “OSD” tab:
- Enable essential data fields like battery voltage, RSSI, flight time, throttle position, etc.
- Drag them to your preferred positions on screen.
Make sure the OSD elements are visible and not overlapping in your FPV feed.
Final Assembly
Battery Mounting
- Add battery pad on top plate to prevent movement in crashes.uts.
- Use 2 x non-slip battery straps for secure hold.
- Center the battery to maintain CG balance.
Your DIY FPV racing drone is now ready for liftoff!
Pro Tips of DIY FPV Racing Drone
- Use short motor wires and clean routing for better cooling and aesthetics.
- Balance props before first flight to reduce vibrations.
- Don’t skip the capacitor—it saves your ESC and improves performance.
- Consider conformal coating electronics if flying in damp or wet environments.
- Practice on a simulator like Liftoff or DRL to sharpen your racing reflexes.
FAQs
Q: How much does it cost to build a 5 inch FPV racing drone?
A good-quality DIY FPV racing drone kit can cost between $250–$450, depending on whether you include HD FPV or analog video.
Q: Is it hard to build a racing drone for beginners?
With the right guide and tools, building a beginner FPV racing drone is totally achievable. Soldering skills and patience are key.
Q: What goggles should I use for FPV racing?
For racing drone goggles, many pilots choose DJI Goggles 2 (HD) or analog options like Skyzone Cobra or FatShark Dominator.
Q: How fast are 5 inch FPV racing drones?
A tuned 5 inch FPV racing drone can reach 100+ mph (160+ km/h), depending on motor KV and prop setup.
Conclusion: Build Your Own FPV Racing Drone Today
Whether you’re into DIY FPV racing drone kits for the love of flight or want to compete on real FPV tracks, building your own drone is the best way to start. This guide offers a complete FPV racing drone parts list, detailed steps, and Betaflight tuning instructions to get you airborne with confidence.